March, 1999 issue

Earlier, in 1524, Giovanni da Verranzano, the Italian sailor, had noted, "... we found a very pleasant situation amongst some steep hills ... ," as he explored the mouth of what he called "The River of Steep Hills," or the "Grand River."

Pioneer settlers quickly proved the truth of Hudson's statement, already recognized for centuries by the Native Americans who provided the English sailor and his crew with their first taste of corn, or "Turkish wheat." They established the foundation for New York State's leading industry to this day -- agriculture.

Obviously, the first plantings were for sustenance and mills to grind flour and corn were built along rivers and streams. Orchards were grown and native trees decimated for their wood for energy and buildings. Farming, by small share croppers, was the principle activity.

By the mid-nineteenth century, as the nation had recovered from the trials and devastations of the Revolutionary War and was seeking its own identity, the Hudson Valley became the crucible for the arts and cultural movement. The emergence of the Hudson River School of Art is intertwined with the philosophical essence of romantic design favored at the time.

Andrew Jackson Downing (1815 - 1852), who is considered to be the father of public parks in the country, practiced from his estate in Newburgh. He unquestionably had a tremendous influence on the planned rural landscape in the area. He wrote profusely about the Hudson Valley in illustrated periodicals such as Harper's Weekly which were widely circulated here and abroad. They contributed to the Hudson River Valley becoming a popular tourist destination for many decades.

Gradually, wealthy Manhattan families discovered the glories of the lower Hudson Valley, and built their summer estates along its shores. None of the estates were complete without extensive landscaped gardens with exotic, exquisitely-maintained specimen trees and shrubs.

The ravages of time have not obliterated all of this legacy. In fact, now decades later, many of the plantings have grown to maturity and only await a period of rediscovery and appreciation.

What follows is a suggested tour of the gardens of the Historic River Towns of Westchester and close by. Some may only be glimpsed from the roadside, others, such as the Rockefeller estate of Kykuit, may be enjoyed in their true majesty on tours with knowledgeable guides. This tour is incomplete -- there are more discoveries to be made -- but it will give a broad picture of a national treasure being uncovered.

Glenview Mansion and Park - Hudson River Museum - Yonkers
Glenview, designed by Charles Clinton for John Bond Trevor, was built in 1877. It is now the site of the Hudson River Museum and is surrounded by a park with splendid views of the Hudson River.

Untermyer Park - Yonkers (Route 9 and Odell Avenue)
Samuel Untermyer (1852 - 1940) bought "Greystone" the former estate of Samuel Tilden in 1899, and later added to his holdings by purchasing "Duncraggan" from William F. Cochran making a total of about 140 acres.

Architect William Welles Bosworth (see references at Kykuit) was employed in 1907 to design the beaux arts garden with follies, fountains, reflecting pools and the Grecian Garden where Isadora Duncan danced.

According to Ellen Meagher, Untermyer Park provides an excellent comparison to Kykuit as it is a "restoration in progress."

The park, which is on the National Register, is open to the public, free, every day and there are many music programs held during the warmer seasons. Nearby are the grounds of the former Elizabeth Seton College, which is planned as the new home for the Irish cultural group Tara Circle. It is remembered as the Alder Mansion, where millionaire William Boyce Thompson established the Boyce Thompson Institute for Plant Research in 1919.

Lenoir Mansion and Preserve - Yonkers
A few years before, Mr. Thompson had constructed Lenoir, a mansion which is now used as the Yonkers Education and Cultural Arts Center.

Beyond the mansion, with an entrance on Dudley Street, is the Lenoir Preserve, a popular nature center with many programs.

Octagon House - West Clinton Avenue - Irvington
Another building on the National Historic Register, the unique Octagon House was built by meat-packaging magnate Philip Armour in the 1860's. It has also been owned by Joseph Stiner and Hudson River historian Carl Carmer and Historic Preservationist Joseph Pell Lombardi.

The grounds, which can be admired through a cast iron fence, feature magnificent Kentucky coffee trees, Chinese gingkoes and Norway spruce. In season, the eight-sided Victorian garden is also visible.

Villa Lewaro - Broadway - Irvington
Madam C. J. Walker's Italianate neo-Palladian style villa on Broadway in Irvington, was saved from the wrecker's ball in 1976 by preservationists of the plantings around the house, about the time it was added to the list of the National Register of Historic Places.

The first African-American millionaire, Madam Walker commissioned the first registered African-American architect, Vertner Woodson Tandy, to design Villa Lewaro. It was completed in 1918 at a cost of $250,000.

The villa is now owned privately, but glimpses of the house and grounds may be obtained from Broadway.

Nevis - Irvington
Mrs. T. Coleman DuPont gave the estate "Nevis" to Columbia University "to make more satisfactory provision for its increasingly important work in landscape architecture and general horticulture."

An early pamphlet remarks, "Nevis is one of the superb examples of historic and landscape architecture in America. No other country place north of Maryland so perfectly exemplifies the taste of the Early Republican Period in our history." It contains an inventory of 2,640 trees and 1,928 ornamental shrubs.

Nevis was constructed in 1835 as the home of James Alexander Hamilton, third son of Alexander Hamilton. Colonel Hamilton and his wife, Elizabeth Schuyler, bought 154 acres in 1834 and named it after the Leeward Island in the British West Indies where his father was born in 1757.

A Cyclotron Laboratory was built on the property in 1947.

Sunnyside - West Sunnyside Lane - Tarrytown
(An Historic Hudson Valley property)
Everyone knows Washington Irving was glad he grew up on the banks of the Hudson River -- and they will share the happiness after a visit to the author's home and garden.

"Art of the Landscape," the catalog printed for an exhibition mounted at the Historic Hudson Valley property of Philipsburg Manor in 1997, curated by Kathleen Eagen Johnson and Timothy Steinhoff, notes, Irving "also shaped a romantic landscape. It gives an air of spaciousness that belies the estate's relatively small size...The overall effect of Sunnyside's landscape was pastoral."

Tarrytown House - East Sunnyside Lane - Tarrytown
Now a Dolce Conference Center, Tarrytown House was once two elegant mansions -- one purchased by Thomas M. King in 1900, the other by Mary Duke Biddle, of the Duke Tobacco Company in 1921. Ms. Biddle later acquired the King property and proceeded to make the estate a garden showplace. Many of the mature trees in the well-cared for landscape are part of her legacy.

Lyndhurst - South Broadway - Tarrytown
Considerately, the National Trust for Historic Preservation property of Lyndhurst provides a brochure for visitors detailing the development of the landscape on the property and suggesting a couple of walks through the estate. The present 67-acres had its origin as the Paulding's 184-acre estate and farm. They engaged the influential Alexander Jackson Davis to design the original Gothic Revival house, and he later expanded it under the proprietorship of George Merritt.

It is thought Davis planned the first treatment of the grounds, but Merritt employed the German horticulturist Ferdinand Mangold in charge of a permanent staff of 100 laborers to transform the Picturesque design into a more modern, elaborate aesthetic.

Later owners, Jay Gould and his daughters Helen and Anna, embellished the landscape further, filling the conservatory with exotic plants, and adding the rose garden and flower borders.

Tarrytown Heights
Some traces of the Tarrytown Heights Land Company's Plan of the Land, 1871, as laid out by the famous company of Olmsted, Vaux & Co. remain in the hills overlooking the Hudson River.

Frank Pierson's Greenhouse Establishment
Alexia Lalli, Executive Director of Heritage Trails New York, maintains it is the stories that "make a Heritage Trail." Therefore, it is great to know that the bank building near Broadway and McKeel Avenue in Tarrytown is all that remains of the once flourishing greenhouse establishment of Frank Pierson.

At the turn of this century, his greenhouses were credited with producing "the very finest American Beauty roses." They attracted visitors from all over this country and from abroad.

Kykuit - Pocantico Hills
(Managed by Historic Hudson Valley)
William Welles Bosworth did not have the most agreeable of clients in John Rockefeller, Sr. when he designed the grounds for Kykuit. Rockefeller disliked the landscape architect and insisted on preparing the site plans himself.

However, Bosworth managed to fashion a majestic Italian Renaissance fantasy, complete with grottoes, fountains, pergolas, and classical statues on the terraced hillsides -- though at twenty-five times the estimated quote.

There is now an incredible collection of 20th century sculpture acquired by Nelson Rockefeller scattered at strategic points throughout the grounds.

The two-hour guided garden tour is probably the high point for garden enthusiasts in Historic River Towns of Westchester.

Rockwood Hall Estate- Sleepy Hollow
The estate, which once belonged to John Rockefeller Sr.'s brother, William, is now another myth in the valley. However, some remnants of the design of Frederick Law Olmsted (designer of New York's Central Park) remain, as do a great variety of the trees planted during Rockefeller's tenure.

Lockadian Gardens - Ossining
Regrettably, also a now only a ghostly memory, the greenhouses of Lockadian Gardens once stretched between Broadway and Water Street in Ossining. An arcade of grape vines was a favorite drive for the carriage crowd.

Wildflower Garden - Teatown Lake Reservation - Ossining
The endangered lady slipper orchids were the inspiration for the two-acre wildflower island nurtured at Teatown Lake Reservation. It is a haven for indigenous plants, protected by staff and volunteers. Guided tours are given regularly during the spring, summer and fall months -- and a reference guide is posted weekly in the gatehouse.

Teatown Lake Reservation itself is worth visiting with its miles of hiking trails and knowledgeable naturalists.

Croton Point Park - Croton-on-Hudson
Another spot to observe wildflowers and magnificent views up and down the Hudson River -- is on the capped landfill (perhaps soon to be called "Underhill") at Croton Point Park.

Near the southern tip of the park are four splendid yew trees which were planted by Dr. Robert Underhill in the mid 1800s. He was also responsible for planting the first grape vines in the state, as evidenced by the profusion of escapee vines.

Watermelons were an agricultural success during the Civil War, when they were not available from the South. Ships moored off Croton Point waiting for the watermelons to ripen so they could take them to markets in Manhattan.

Van Cortlandt Manor - Croton-on-Hudson
(An Historic Hudson Valley property)
The historic manor house, visited by such notable as George Washington, Benjamin Franklin and Lady Bird Johnson, is connected to the Ferry House by the Long Walk.

During the summer and fall, the walk is profusion of flowers, vegetables and herbs of an earlier period. Costumed guides can point out the culinary and medical uses made of many varieties.

Boscobel - Route 9D - Garrison
The Hudson River views, carefully tended gardens, and walks at Boscobel Restoration are another highlight. Even at night, after a performance by the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Company on the grounds, walking back through the orchard with the path lit with lanterns, is a magical experience.

Manitoga - Route 9D - Garrison
Manitoga was the home and landscape created by Russel Wright from the 1930s - 1950s. He was one of the best known designers of home furnishings in America and the estate, and his home, Dragon Rock, reflect achievements in his design pursuit of an aesthetic harmony with nature. Wright's home and studio, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, are only open by advance reservation. Call (914) 424-3812

More recent signs of horticultural activity are adding to the pleasure of visitors to the Historic River Towns of Westchester. A friendly "Flower Village" competition, inspired by Martin Ginsburg of the Ginsburg Development Corp., is entering its second year. The Jane Lytle Memorial Arboretum in Croton-on-Hudson welcomes hikers to the property located near the Hudson National Golf Course and the Brinton Brook Saw Mill River Audubon Sanctuary. Several local garden and civic clubs, especially one in Park Hill, Yonkers, conduct annual garden and house tours which are well worthwhile.

The garden trail continues up along the Hudson River to the Great Estates Region, where a myriad of further treats await travelers and residents.